Premme: premium & femme

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Premme is a mash-up of the words premiere, premium, feminist, and femme

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Already wrote about the Premme, Nicolette Mason and Gabi Gregg’s clothing line is coming! And here it is! Premme will be sold at 8 am US time, so here in Europe we have to wait a bit…

Which makes sense given that this collection consists of girlish statement pieces (like asymmetrical bodysuits, pearl-studded sweats, thigh-slit pants, and cutout dresses and jumpsuits) in sizes 12 to 30. “It’s a very feminine line,” says Gregg. Oh, and there’s phrases like Feminist AF patched on to jackets and tees because, “feminism is what brought us together as friends, and what we have always pushed in terms of our personal and brand values,” Mason explains.

My first impression is: young! I understand they jump in what their folllowers want. I was hoping for a bit more designer feeling. It’s a bit Asos, Forever 21 styles. Not really a strong signature, do you know what I mean? I was hoping for a stronger image. I know there is a lot of statement and feminist moving in this collection, which makes it different! Not flattering, that what Beth Ditto also wanted to show, different body shapes than hourglass.
Nicolette wears a lot of designer pieces and I know she is a huge fan of high end pieces. I was hoping to see this back in their clothing line. But… maybe that’s what I want. It just a reflection of myself. oh, if you want to make the feminist statement.. where are the ‘Hillary power-suits’? Can’t wait for it…, unfortunately we can’t buy it anyway… so… no hurry at all.

The images, marketing is very strong. It really makes me: ” I WANT IT ALL ” haha… that’s a good thing. And yes, I have some favourites: the lilac palazzo pants and the jeans off shoulder dress! Love it!
Gabi & Nicolette, you can be very proud of what you done.. I heard you spent so much time in this collection. And I know how that feels, and also how it feels like ‘giving birth to your baby’. Good luck being in this rollercoaster, but you know how to handle it! Big love to you!

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On Glamour an interview with Gabi & Nicolette:

Glamour: What was the biggest challenge in having things like those brought to life?
Nicolette: Honestly, a big part of it was finding the right partners, finding the right manufacturer. We needed people who understood plus-size fit.
Gabi: And who trusted us! A lot of potential partners would want to put their insight into the pieces, but Instaco [their collaborator] has been really great about letting us have full creative control—and we trust them on manufacturing.

Glamour: What else did you have to overcome to get the product that you wanted?
Gabi: The design process was the biggest challenge, in my mind. It’s hard to fit for plus, which is why I think a lot of designers haven’t gone there yet—because they’re scared. We don’t want everything to be stretchy and have the visible, scrunchy-scrunch elastic because it’s just not a good look. But I think you can have stretch in different pieces so it can fit different body types. But we didn’t want it to look like that cheap, elastic fit that everyone does.
Nicolette: And there were also a couple of pieces that we were really, really excited about, and no matter what we did with the construction, trying to change the fit, they just didn’t come out right and we had to cut them.

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Glamour: Why did you decide to lean into über feminine pieces?
Nicolette: Well, we eventually want to do more androgynous styles and speak to our gender nonconforming plus-size siblings, but this speaks to who we are.
Gabi: As plus-size women, we think that clothing is political, and the things we aren’t offered have to do with our size. We tried to bring feminism into our brand.

Glamour: Any other details you’re especially proud of in these pieces?
Gabi: We had a birds-of-paradise-inspired print custom made [for the bomber and skirt].
Nicolette: It’s by Martha Moore Potter, a textile designer who [also] has a jewelry line. That’s something we want to do for each delivery: collaborate with other female makers.
Glamour: What are your personal favorite pieces from the first collection?
Gabi: The pearl sweats set!
Nicolette: I love the jacket. The [lavender slit] pants are great too.

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Glamour: Looking at the bigger picture, what is Premme trying to fix in the market?
Gabi: I was sick of the rules, so Premme is all about rule-breaking. A lot of brands say they are too, but to be honest, they say that because they know it’s a cool slogan—you look at the clothes and they’re boring. We wanted the clothes to speak for themselves. We really wanted the clothes to actually break the rules. We have an oversize mesh dress that’s not fitted to the body, you know? We don’t want to be constricted by the idea that you have to wear a wrap dress or skinny jeans or—
Nicolette: That you have to be quote-unquote figure-flattering—not everything needs to look like you have an hourglass shape.

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